No doubt Vanessa Bruno's decision to bypass the runway this season surprised her longtime fans. But reconnecting with those devotees motivated her to make the decision, she said in her 11th-arrondissement headquarters. Setting aside the question of spin, her calm and seemingly well-rested mien made a case for skipping a runway production and all its inherent stress. More important, many of the laid-back looks in her Spring offering would not have translated well on the runway. The collection moved along a trajectory of updated basics such as relaxed jackets and perfectly cropped pants. Highlights included a white denim skirtsuit and an indigo blouse with scalloped sleeves and tulle inserts that had been hand-embroidered. Miniskirts covered with floppy fabric flowers, all applied by hand (and tie-dyed, in one variation), showed Bruno's unwavering interest in surface details that translate to everyday wear. In terms of styling, the linear-patterned printed silk wrap skirt paired with a men's shirt and backless boat shoes worked well. Bruno made a solid case for taking pleasure in casual dressing, but in so doing she left out the necessary frisson, the intangible need, to keep her customers from going elsewhere.
