Vanessa Bruno S/S 15 Paris


Super Star
Jan 25, 2012
So a lot of my favorite designers opted for presentations instead of shows this season. It's silly to create showlists for them (and most of the time I cannot ID the model anyway), but since I noticed that most of the girls here are as interested in the actual fashion as in the models, I wanted to make threads for these gorgeous collections nevertheless. Review

No doubt Vanessa Bruno's decision to bypass the runway this season surprised her longtime fans. But reconnecting with those devotees motivated her to make the decision, she said in her 11th-arrondissement headquarters. Setting aside the question of spin, her calm and seemingly well-rested mien made a case for skipping a runway production and all its inherent stress. More important, many of the laid-back looks in her Spring offering would not have translated well on the runway. The collection moved along a trajectory of updated basics such as relaxed jackets and perfectly cropped pants. Highlights included a white denim skirtsuit and an indigo blouse with scalloped sleeves and tulle inserts that had been hand-embroidered. Miniskirts covered with floppy fabric flowers, all applied by hand (and tie-dyed, in one variation), showed Bruno's unwavering interest in surface details that translate to everyday wear. In terms of styling, the linear-patterned printed silk wrap skirt paired with a men's shirt and backless boat shoes worked well. Bruno made a solid case for taking pleasure in casual dressing, but in so doing she left out the necessary frisson, the intangible need, to keep her customers from going elsewhere.