Alexander McQueen PFW S/S 15 Showlist

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Julia Bergshoeff (O)
Vanessa Moody
Taya Ermoshkina
Ana Buljevic
Harleth Kuusik
Lexi Boling
Alexandra Elizabeth
Nastya Sten
Hanne Gaby Odiele
Waleska Gorczevski
Paulina King
Ondria Hardin
Luping Wang
Katlin Aas
Jessica Burley
Kremi Otashliyska
Serena Archetti
Sanne Vloet
Zoe Huxford
Polina Kasina
Leila Nda
Adrienne Jüliger
Malaika Firth
Yana van Ginneken
Irina Liss
Issa Lish
Anna Grostina
Julie Hoomans
Ine Neefs
Anine van Velzen
Maja Salomon
Hedvig Palm
Maartje Verhoef
Sunniva Wahl (C)
 
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sore

Super Star
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Posts
2,318
Karma
1,427
Julia Bergshoeff

Vanessa Moody

Taya Ermoshkina

Ana Buljevic

Harleth Kuusik

Lexi Boling

Alexandra Elizabeth

Nastya Sten

Hanne-Gaby Odiele

Waleska Gorczevski

Paulina King

Lexi Boling

Luping Wang

Katlin Aas

Jessica Burley
 

sore

Super Star
Joined
Jan 25, 2012
Posts
2,318
Karma
1,427
Kremi Otashliyska

Serena Archetti

Sanne Vloet

Zoe Huxford

Polina Kasina

Leila Nda

Adrienne Jüliger

Malaika Firth

Yana van Ginneken

Irina Liss

Issa Lish

Ana Grostina

Julie Hoomans

Ine Neefs

Anine van Velzen

Maja Salomon

Hedvig Palm

Maartje Verhoef

Sunniva Wahl
 

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Style.com Review

Marc Quinn's huge, ethereal white orchids, gorgeously spotlighted in the center of the black oak catwalk, were in fact cast in bronze. The contrast of floral delicacy and weighty substance was a perfect introduction to Sarah Burton's new collection for Alexander McQueen. She's been in a Japanese frame of mind for at least her last men's and Resort collections. Here, the geisha and the samurai embodied the extremes of her latest looks.

Burton fell under Japan's spell years ago, when she'd traveled there on Lee's business. She acquired quite the collection of kimonos and other artisanal artifacts. And she fell in love with the notion that clothes could have so much personal meaning for their owners. That idea of preciousness was her new inspiration. "Make your clothes so they mean something," was her mantra.

It made for an intense show. The models walked with faces encircled in black lacquer frames, courtesy of the ingenious makeup-ist Pat McGrath. The clothes were tightly belted, tightly harnessed, which created an especially loaded image when the harness was wrapped around a purely feminine kimono shape: the ultimate lady warrior. The fetishistic physicality of such a look was echoed in the inserts that articulated jacquard sheaths, the streamlined pantsuits and the flaring skater skirts, the zippered kimono sleeves. The clothes were infused with an odd energy.

There was the standard maniacal attention to detail in the pearls that seeded the flowers on a skirt of ruffled chiffon, but it would be pleasing to think that this collection represented a new directness for Burton. At least the history here was personal—or as personal as that grab bag of her souvenirs from her Japanese trips. And the face-off between geisha and samurai would seem like the very embodiment of the savage beauty that nestles at the dark heart of McQueen.